If a picture is worth a thousand words, skin is worth a million. As the largest organ of the body, skin is also the most exposed to not only the elements, but also our observation and critique. From the moment we meet our clients we can begin evaluating their skin. From hydration to repetitive stress and facial expression, the integumentary system is an open book with profound implications for client’s bodies, lives and environment, making it a priceless evaluation tool.
In both Eastern and Western theory, lifestyle choices are imperative to the health of skin, making exercise and diet essential.
What we ingest and absorb through food are the building blocks of our organ systems. A lack of vitamins and minerals shows in the color, texture and feeling of skin. Dehydration can present itself as erythema (redness), inflammation, irritation and flaking. Simple dietary imbalances such as excessive sodium intake can cause dehydration and edema (swelling). Water retention in some cases is evidence of renal failure and/or hypertension. The homeostasis of the skin shows in the glowing complexion of not only the face, but the whole body – an affirmation of the fresh lymph and blood delivering vital nutrients. Generally speaking clients with good circulation are active; their rosy cheeks a testament to health and a symbol of youth. On the contrary, smoker’s skin has a leathery, lackluster and tired appearance. The deterioration of the elastin around the mouth and lips is known as “smoker’s mouth.” It is the same with overexposure to the sun’s powerful rays. 
Through skin we absorb and synthesize vitamin D, vital to our body and our mental/emotional health. Overexposure can lead to the mutation of skin cells and ultimately skin cancer. Whether fair skinned and light eyed, or sun worshipping beach bums, the color and evolving texture of the epidermis is an undeniable indicator of exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays. Through the assistance of a Wood’s lamp, we can see the deeper exposure and damage done to the dermis and subcutaneous. The ABCDs of skin cancer – Abnormal shape and size, irregular Borders, more than one Color and Diameter – help decrypt the new and old skin growths.
Communicating with our clients is not always an easy task. Something that makes us human is our ability to communicate non-verbally via facial expressions. This affects our skin as muscle memory holds patterns on our face, ultimately breaking down collagen and elastin. A perfect example is the frontalis muscle. The horizontal lines it creates when contracted in shock or emotions (with the brow elevated) indicates that there is a chance the client is stressed, or in a constant state of anxiety.
Our facial skin is particularly reactive to environmental and emotional stimuli. Erythema from a glass of wine or hyperemia from once being exposed to steam can be symptomatic of rosacea. Although Lupus is an autoimmune disease (not specifically a circulatory issue), increased circulation in the face causes the famed butterfly rash. The many signs of circulation, or the absence of, can provide information about what is deeper in the body. Remember that symptoms that show in the skin can be a sign of disease or disfunction in a completely separate body system.
Cosmetic dermatitis can be linked to misused and/or overused products on the face and body. Acneic skin is one of the most abused skin types by uneducated persons. The vicious cycle of over-cleansing, under-moisturizing and misused makeup makes for painful and aggravated skin. Remember acne, psoriasis and eczema can all correlate to hormones and emotional distress.
Understanding the skin brings us beyond the information our clients divulge and deeper into the mind and body. Beauty is greater than skin deep – it is all-encompassed in the equilibrium of the body. But, to truly change our job from merely treating the skin superficially, it is critical that we read beyond the skin as a one dimensional organ, and more as a multifaceted and vital part of the organism it holds together.
Antonia Schreiber is a NYS licensed massage therapist, cosmetologist and electrologist. Schreiber established, owns and operates The Windham Spa and The Windham Spa at Windham Mountain Ski Resort. She is also a contributor to Milady-Cengage Learning, a board member and consultant for the New York State Department of Education Career and Technical Education Advisory Committee, and is a volunteer educator and mentor to high school aesthetic and cosmetology students. Schreiber is currently working on future projects with the historic Kur Bad of Bad Kissingen in Bavaria, Germany.
antonia@thewindhamspa.com
