Waxing is a popular form of hair removal as it is quick, efficient, and clients feel the immediate hair-free results. Often, waxing is the preferred choice of hair removal because it is both fast and quite affordable. As with any professional service offered at a spa, it is important to take the appropriate steps to fully qualify a client as a waxing candidate prior to offering the service. There are several lifestyle factors which can directly impact the effectiveness and safety of the wax on a client’s skin and instances when waxing may not be the best form of hair removal. Here is a guide to qualify a client as a waxing candidate and other things to consider.
STEP ONE
Gather as much information as possible about the client in terms of lifestyle habits, medications, and their skin care routine. Using a client intake form that each client completes prior to their wax is a good way to gain a better understanding of their overall lifestyle choices. For example, waxers need to be aware if clients are using certain common ingredients found in skin care products. It is recommended that ingredients such as retinol and glycolic acid are avoided for 48 to 72 hours prior to a facial wax as both ingredients can cause skin to be more sensitive. These active ingredients work by decreasing the thickness of the outermost layer of skin, which may cause it to lift with the wax, leaving a very sensitive client. Asking clients to refrain from using these products prior to their wax helps reduce any chances of skin lifting during the wax.
Additionally, it is good practice to understand other lifestyle choices, such as how much time a client typically spends in the sun. It is highly suggested to avoid suntanning at least two to three days after a wax as skin is sensitive and can burn more easily. Finally, there are certain medications that can indirectly affect the sensitivity of a client’s skin. Isotretinoin and prednisone are two medications that are known to cause skin to be highly sensitive. It is important to inquire what medications clients are taking ahead of their scheduled appointment as they will need to stop taking them well in advance so their wax can be performed safely. The intake form should be completed by all new clients in advance of the wax appointment so any issues can be addressed prior to the treatment and any disappointment can be avoided. Additionally, educating loyal clients on the importance of communicating any changes to their profile is also a good idea to avoid upsetting situations.
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STEP TWO
Consider the risks of performing a wax on a questionable candidate. There may be situations where a client can be considered a viable candidate for waxing; however, waxers may want to take extra steps to ensure that the client is comfortable, especially when the client has extra sensitive skin or is a first timer. For these clients, selecting products that specifically target their skin concern reduces the chances of a reaction. It helps to choosing hard (hot) wax on a sensitive client that has added soothing ingredients in it, such as aloe vera, argan oil, or arnica. Furthermore, waxers can use a pre-waxing oil on the client to add soothing moisture and an additional protective barrier to their skin.
Waxing does come with an inherent risk of a negative reaction to a client’s skin. Although uncommon, there are some adverse reactions that can occur, such as redness or tenderness immediately after the wax, possible bruising, red bumps (or pustules), and, in some instances, folliculitis. To help minimize the chances of any of these reactions, there are a few precautionary steps that can take. To avoid burning skin, always check the temperature of the wax on the inside of the wrist prior to applying it directly to a client’s skin. If it is too hot, add more wax to the pot to help cool the wax down quickly.
When performing a wax, the hair follicles open, which can allow bacteria to get into the pores and cause a reaction. Red bumps can sometimes occur as a reaction to debris getting into the open hair follicle. Applying a skin cleanser before the wax cleans the area of any dirt, lotion, or makeup. It is also recommended to cleanse immediately after the wax to close the hair follicles and further ensure no bacteria gets into the open hair follicle. Select a cleanser that contains active ingredients such as jasmine or chamomile to moisturize, soothe, and cleanse skin. Additionally, apply an aftercare product that has antibacterial ingredients, like tea tree, to minimize reactions. Waxing can irritate skin as the hair is pulled from its roots; this can slightly bruise the follicle and sometimes cause itchiness. However, it is a normal reaction and an indication of healing. Applying a cold compress can reduce the irritation and calm the area very effectively.
Folliculitis is a form of skin irritation characterized by tender red spots on skin that originate from the hair follicle. It results when bacteria enters the hair follicle, and it becomes infected, creating a red spot or pustule on skin. It is a more common occurrence with clients who have sensitive skin. There are a few recommendations to prevent and treat it. The use of pre- and post-waxing products helps. For clients who have sensitive skin, applying a cold compress immediately after waxing helps reduce redness and soothe skin. Additionally, recommending retail products that encourage clients to routinely exfoliate in between treatments reduces the chances of folliculitis developing after waxing, and it reduces the occurrence of ingrown hairs.
Ingrown hairs can be a common occurrence after waxing. They form when the hair becomes impacted in the hair follicle and curves back under skin. It often happens because skin grows over the open hair follicle very quickly, which can prevent the new hair growth from pushing out through skin. Ingrown hairs are more common with strong hair growth. Exfoliation at home is important to help remove any dead skin cells and allow the new hair to poke through skin more easily. Additionally, using products that have targeted ingredients, such as tea tree oil or salicylic acid is good to minimize the chances of ingrown hairs and to treat them. Clients may feel itchy two weeks after the wax treatment. This can be an indication that the new hair is making its way out of their skin. The client should recognize this as a good indication to exfoliate.
STEP THREE
Know what action to take in the event that an adverse reaction does occur. Although all the precautionary steps to qualify a client may have been taken, there is still a chance for clients to have an adverse reaction, causing the waxing service to go poorly. When this is the case, communication with the client is key. If a negative situation happens during the wax – for example, an area of the client’s skin accidentally gets burned, it is best to be honest and let the client know how to treat the area properly to avoid it getting worse. Immediately apply a cold compress to the area and then ensure that they know what homecare they should do. It is also a good idea to tell the client that the burned area might discolor during the healing process and not to be concerned. Aloe vera can be applied to the burn area to help further soothe and heal the area. Make sure to personally follow up with the client a day after to check in and answer any questions they have. Accidents can happen, and in the event that they do, it is best to be upfront rather than trying to cover up a situation.
Bruising is another adverse effect of waxing that can occur for a number of reasons. The main reason it may happen is if skin is not held taut when the wax is removed. This applies for both the removal of the strip and the hard wax. Secondly, the angle at which the wax is removed will create a bruise if done incorrectly. The wax needs to be removed in alignment with the area and not straight up away from the body. It is especially important to ensure this when removing wax around the upper thighs, upper arms, and bikini area. It may be easier to work in smaller sections to ensure skin is always held taut and supported. It is also important to pull the strips off quickly, particularly with strip wax. If the client does end up with a bruise, apply ice to the area to reduce the healing time and any pain associated with it. Following up with the client after the service is a good idea to ensure the area is healing well.
Education about at-home care in between waxing services is crucial since properly preparing skin for the next wax reduces any chances for reaction. Exfoliation is an essential homecare step that helps to rid of skin of buildup and allows the new hair to poke through, preventing ingrown hairs and allowing the hair to be pulled easily from the follicle during a wax, making it less painful. During the waxing service, offer suggestions for homecare and recommended retail products.
STEP FOUR
Ensuring that the wax room is clean and fully sanitized prior to each waxing service is important. Never double dip and be sure to use a new spatula each time. This eliminates any chance for microorganisms to enter the wax pot. Using disposable paper or changing the towel on the bed between clients is also important. If professionals choose to use a waxing pad, make sure that it is wiped down with a strong disinfectant after every client. Clients will notice when waxers provide a safe, clean wax room, and it will also help to further reduce the chances of adverse reactions.
Waxing is an affordable, quick, and efficient way to achieve hair-free, smooth results. It is considered by most to be a safer option compared to other hair removal services, such as laser hair removal. The risk of adverse side effects with waxing is low. However, it is still important to qualify each waxing candidate prior to the wax to reduce the chances of a negative reaction.
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Lindsay Miller is the president of LYCON Wax North America. Having first discovered LYCON Wax in the United Kingdom 10 years ago, she has dedicated her time to growing the brand across North America, including introducing LYCON to Canada. Training and product quality are extremely important to Miller, and she prides herself on building a strong team around her that can offer the best customer experience possible. LYCON continues to be a market leader in hair removal wax and is used in top spas and salons around the world.