Every part of being a skin care professional in a treatment room involves understanding not only skin but also how ingredients in the products being used are beneficial or effective for the client’s concerns. Those still in school can get overwhelmed by the concept of learning a new product line, especially in addition to everything else that they need to study for. However, seasoned professionals know the importance of very specific and active ingredients that benefit virtually every skin type and skin condition.
Knowing ingredients of facials or homecare will help you be prepared for what sensitivities may arise, what contraindications exist, and what will benefit or could irritate skin. Ingredients are ever changing and always getting better, safer, and more innovative. Keeping up with education throughout your entire career as a skin care professional is an absolute must in order to keep up with the new advances in ingredients. Here are some tried and true ingredients you can bring up during a consultation that can benefit a large pool of concerns and conditions.
HYALURONIC ACID
It’s easy to know and remember the most common benefit of this humectant that is capable of binding a thousand times its weight in water, but it is much more than that. Hyaluronic acid is produced by the body and is considered a glycosaminoglycan, or a lubricating substance within the body. It plays an important role in wound healing and tissue repair. As people age, their natural production of hyaluronic acid slows down. This can be seen in skin with more noticeable dryness, as well as more visible fine lines and wrinkles.
Hyaluronic acid helps skin maintain its stretch and flexibility and fills in and plumps skin to provide a younger, more youthful appearance. This powerful ingredient is safe for most skin types; however, when in doubt, it never hurts to patch test on rosacea or any sensitive skin clients.
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VITAMIN C
Any professional can tell you that not all vitamin C is created equally, but it features an endless list of beneficial effects, like healing, collagen boosting, brightening and lightening, and, of course, powerful antioxidant properties. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is one of the most stable forms of vitamin C and can be beneficial for more sensitive skin due to its inability to penetrate skin quickly. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is oil-soluble and therefore stable and faster absorbing; it works great for targeting uneven skin tone, brightening, and improving overall complexion. It is also a great form of vitamin C for more sensitive skin because it does not require a low pH to be effective.
Of course, you can’t forget L-ascorbic acid. This form is biologically active and found in nature. L-ascorbic acid is the most abundant antioxidant found in the body. It is beneficial for lightening and brightening but is less stable and can be irritating at certain concentrations for some skin types and conditions. Every professional will have their favorite form, but the benefits are truly amazing with each.
ALPHA HDROXY ACIDS
Alpha hydroxy acids are very effective and, more often than not, gentle forms of exfoliation. Their benefits include smoothing fine line and wrinkles, improving overall texture and skin tone, and unclogging pores, to name a few. Great sources of alpha hydroxy acids include citric, glycolic, and lactic acids. They can be found in virtually every skin care product, from cleansers to serums to chemical peels. There is something out there for every client and every skin type and condition.
These are just a few examples of the powerful ingredients in the skin care world that are tried and true but changing and updating regularly. Research and see what works best for your clients’ concerns and have a variety to accommodate sensitivities or ingredient allergies. Not every client will be on the same routine. As their spa provider, ask questions, check in after your new product recommendations, and make sure they are liking them and using them in the correct order. Never overwhelm your client or their skin with too many new products at once; there will be no way for you to check what is or isn’t working or where the potential source of irritation could be coming from. If they react to one thing, they will not want to use anything. Thorough assessments and an in-depth understanding of the changing landscape of ingredients and formulations will be key to finding the right routine and delivering stellar results.
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Andrea Gregaydis is a licensed aesthetician and international CIDESCO diplomat. She holds multiple additional licenses as a New York state instructor and nail technician, as well as certified laser technician. Gregaydis is the lead instructor at the Aesthetic Science Institute and has over 10 years of experience as a practitioner, team coordinator, and role model for hundreds of future skin care professionals. She is contributing author to top industry trade magazines, as well as a speaker at various aesthetics conferences across the United States. She is also a CIDESCO International Examiner.
